Commonly Asked Roofing & Siding Questions Answered

Mother Nature always wins in the end. However, annual inspections with touch ups to roof penetrations (pipes, chimneys, etc.) are recommended after your roof is 10 years old. When it comes time to replace your roof, consider a higher grade of asphalt. A high grade of asphalt results in superior granule adhesion/retention. Granule retention helps block UV rays from dry rotting the asphalt and preventing water from collecting in small pockets.

Get an inspection whenever you have a concern about your roof. Otherwise, after the roof is 10 years old, it's good to have an inspection every year.

It takes about 45 minutes to an hour for us to measure everything. We’ll then provide you with an estimate that includes a detailed scope of work and often several options; to be emailed within 24 hours!

When a roof is installed correctly, it can realistically last about 20 years with standard shingles in the Chicago environment (yes even a “30 year” or a “50 year” or a “lifetime” shingle typically lasts 20 years). At Reliance Roof Troop, we do offer premium shingles, which can last up to 30 years.

There can be some minor touch-ups, but you need to watch out for gutters. Make sure they are not clogged and make sure your downspouts kick out and away from your foundation (we recommend at least 3 ft away).

Once the customer signs our contract, we’ll give them a tentative start date and we’ll stay in touch from that point until the work is completed. In general, roofing jobs take one to two days and siding takes from three to 12 business days. The time for each job also depends on the size of the building, the steepness of the roof, whether there’s a second layer on the roof, and if we need to replace the roof decking.

Good question! Understand that for the last 10+ years ALL asphalt shingle manufacturers label their shingles as "Lifetime" rated. This is just a marketing gimmick. Shingles do not last a lifetime unless you put on clay tile or slate on your roof. Normal asphalt shingles last 15-20 years and then you are on borrowed time. Besides, the term "Lifetime" is relative and vague. It has a good ring to it though, doesn't it?

The shingle warranty covers shingle defects like cracking, blistering, cupping and delamination. Depending on the shingle, the warranty is only covered up to 100% for 10-15 years. After the 100% coverage (non-prorated) period, it decreases in coverage down to $2,000 around year 40.

Workmanship warranty periods are far more important for homeowners than any shingle warranty.

We’re not designers, but we’re aware of what’s trendy in each neighbourhood. We’re happy to give you our input, but the design itself is up to you. Each neighbourhood is different, and we treat all our customers as individuals.

We respect your home and your space. To preserve your garden, new grill, or patio, we section off areas and cover areas and objects with protective tarps. We place plywood over the windows and use gutter shields that protect the outside edge and inside of gutters.

This is normal for standard shingles, but there are other options to combat this!

Five to six nails per shingle.

Short answer; No. There are plenty of unlicensed, uninsured, and uncertified contractors who will not require you pay your deductible. Both Illinois and Indiana state law require a person insured under a property insurance policy to pay any deductible applicable to a claim made under the policy. It is a violation of Illinois and Indiana state law for a seller of goods or services who reasonably expects to be paid wholly or partly from the proceeds of a property insurance claim to knowingly allow the insured person to fail to pay, or assist the insured person's failure to pay, the applicable insurance deductible.

Insurance companies frequently require proof of your deductible being paid. Failure to provide proof results in the suspension of Reliance Roof Troop's business and professional Licenses. Paying your deductible to a reputable and professional contractor ensures your roof is not receiving any shortcuts and your workmanship warranty stays intact with a long term company. Contractors willing to cover deductibles have a reputation of not staying in business long term and probably do not have the necessary general liability insurance and licensing requirements.

I am certified by HAAG trainers to properly inspect for both Hail and Wind on residential homes - insurance adjusters are often required to become certified with these exact requirements.

Hail – I am looking for recent dents to soft metals (exhaust vents, fascia and window wraps, gutters and downspouts). I then look for hail impacts to your siding and windows. After going around the home at the ground level, I get on the roof and inspect for impacts to the roof. In order to qualify as functional damage, the hail must blow out shingle granules and usually leave some granules embedded or pushed into the fiberglass mat. I then look closer to determine if the fiberglass mat has been fractured by the impact. The fracturing results in functional damage. Without fractures, the damage is more or less considered cosmetic by insurance companies.

Wind – I focus more on the roof eaves, rake edges, and near the ridge of the roof. Those are the most likely areas that will have uplifted or torn shingles. After documenting any damaged shingles, I then determine the repairability of the roof. Can the shingles be repaired or will the slope or entire roof have to be replaced? Will the local building departments and code approve any repair?

It’s best to always call for an inspection if you are concerned about possible hail or wind damage. They are free!

You bet! I’m not there to tell the adjuster how to do his job. I maintain great relationships with some local insurance adjusters (some are from out of state). I am there to help the adjuster document all storm damage, provide necessary local & State building codes, and paint a picture of the storm. I essentially “speak their language” when it comes to repair vs. replacement.

Insurance handles your approved funds for storm damage to your home in two ways: ACV and RCV. ACV stands for Actual Cash Value. That is your upfront check insurance says is the current value based off the age of whatever component of your home that was damaged. RCV is Replacement Cost Value. RCV is your “depreciated amount” or “withheld funds”. You receive these funds after we send a completed invoice to the insurance company. Insurance companies separate your total approved funds because they want to incentivize you as the policyholder to complete all repairs that have been approved.

The estimate is a line-by-line breakdown of all approved repairs and how much they approve for the ACV and for the RCV category. Just remember, the older the damaged component, the higher Depreciated (withheld) funds. It really doesn’t matter how much they assign to ACV or RCV. It is no additional out-of-pocket for you. Your only amount owed out of pocket is still your deductible. Give us a call to schedule a free, no-pressure sit-down consultation!